Smoke and CO Alarms

Alan Stephens • May 7, 2025

Two simple ways to protect your home and family.

Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarms – 2 Easy Ways to Protect Your Home and Family

One of the most common defects I encounter during a home inspection is the absence or inoperable condition of smoke and carbon monoxide alarms. These life-saving devices are designed to alert you to the presence of smoke or dangerous levels of carbon monoxide (CO) in the air, giving you and your family time to evacuate safely and, if necessary, alert emergency services. Today’s standards and available options for smoke and CO alarms in the home are relatively straightforward and economical, so protecting your home and family has never been easier. In this blog, we’ll review each type of device and its requirements.

Smoke Alarms and Detectors

Smoke alarms are especially crucial in preventing fire-related deaths and injuries. According to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), roughly three out of five home fire deaths occur in homes with no smoke alarms or non-functioning smoke alarms. This statistic is a grim reminder of the importance of having working smoke alarms in your home.

You should be aware that there is a difference between a smoke “alarm” and a smoke “detector”. A detector is a sensor that monitors for smoke and is connected to a fire alarm system. A smoke alarm has both a sensor AND a sound-emitting speaker that notifies the home occupants of the presence of smoke. Smoke alarms are the most common devices found in homes.

There are also different types of smoke alarms that are designed to respond to different types of fires. An “ionization” smoke alarm is generally more responsive to flaming fires, whereas a “photoelectric” smoke alarm is more responsive to smoking, smoldering fires. A dual-sensor alarm with both types of sensors offers the best protection and is generally recommended.

Today's standards for smoke alarms require at least one device per bedroom and one device on each floor. This includes basements and attics but excludes crawl spaces and unfinished storage areas. Smoke alarms should be installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and should be placed on the ceiling or high on the wall (within 12” of the ceiling), as smoke rises.

Smoke alarms should be tested every 2 months to confirm that they are functional. They are powered either by batteries (replaceable or 10-year) or hardwired with battery backup. Replaceable batteries should be replaced at least annually.

According to the NFPA, when present, hardwired smoke alarms operated in 94 percent of the fires considered large enough to trigger a smoke alarm. Battery-powered alarms operated 82 percent of the time. Power source issues were the most common factors when smoke alarms failed to operate.

Smoke alarms should be replaced based on the date of manufacture on the back label – generally every 10- years.

Carbon Monoxide Alarms

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless and odorless gas that’s produced when fossil fuel is incompletely burned because of insufficient oxygen. In a home, this is commonly related to space heaters, water heaters, blocked chimneys, or a running vehicle inside a garage. It’s also a by-product of wood fires, charcoal grills, and malfunctioning heating systems. When inhaled in high concentrations, CO will deplete the available oxygen in a person’s blood, leading to disorientation, and in severe cases, permanent memory impairment or death.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) reports, "Every year, at least 420 people die in the U.S. from accidental CO poisoning.” The CDC also goes on to say, “More than 100,000 people in the U.S. visit the emergency department each year due to accidental CO poisoning.” https://www.cdc.gov/nceh/features/copoisoning/index.html

When selecting a CO alarm, confirm that it is UL approved and loud enough to wake you up.

According to the 2005 edition of the carbon monoxide guidelines, NFPA 720, published by the National Fire Protection Association, sections 5.1.1.1 and 5.1.1.2, all CO alarms 'shall be centrally located outside of each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms,' and each alarm 'shall be located on the wall, ceiling or other location as specified in the installation instructions that accompany the unit.' Additionally, today’s standards require at least one alarm on each floor of the home, and in the proximity (within 20’) of any fuel-burning appliance (i.e., furnace or fireplace) and an attached garage.

The best place for a CO alarm is on a wall roughly five feet from the floor, where it can measure the air at a height that people in the house are breathing it. This ensures that any dangerous levels of carbon monoxide are detected quickly, allowing you to evacuate the area and call for professional help.

In addition, take the following measures:

• Make sure appliances are installed and operated according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

• Have the heating system, chimney, and vents inspected and serviced annually.

• Examine vents and chimneys regularly for improper connections, cracks, rust, or

stains.

• Make sure to read your CO alarm's user guide and keep it near your CO alarm

for quick reference.

Battery-operated CO alarms should have the battery replaced annually. Any CO alarm should generally be replaced every five to six years.

A combination smoke and carbon monoxide alarm is an alarm that has both sensors to sense smoke and to sense carbon monoxide. These alarms may look like smoke alarms and are mounted on the ceiling or the wall near the ceiling. Recommended replacement is every 7 years for a combination CO/smoke alarm.

A Home Maintenance Inspection is a great way to identify issues that potentially compromise the safety, longevity, and value of your home. Contact Acuity Home Inspections today to schedule!

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Home Warranties Explained: A Home Inspector's Guide for Buyers

By Alan Stephens • July 21, 2026

After an inspection, one of the first questions we hear is, "Should we get a home warranty?" A warranty can help with unexpected repair bills, but the coverage for major appliances depends on the details. Here is how we tell homeowners to evaluate a plan before they sign. 1. What "covered" really means Most standard plans list refrigerator, oven and range, dishwasher, built-in microwave, washer and dryer. What they often don't highlight is what is not included. Common exclusions are ice makers, water dispensers, door seals and gaskets, racks, handles, and any cosmetic parts. Two clauses matter most for buyers: • Pre-existing conditions: If the inspection report noted an issue, or if there is no proof the appliance was working at closing, the claim can be denied. • Maintenance: If you cannot show routine maintenance, like coil cleaning or filter changes, that can also be used to deny a claim. Keep your inspection report and any receipts. And check the payout cap. That is the absolute max the company will pay per appliance or per year. A $1,500 cap will not fully replace a high-end French door refrigerator. 2. The two costs you are really paying There is the monthly or annual premium, and then the per-visit service fee, usually $75 to $125. That fee is charged every time a technician comes out, even if they do not fix anything on that visit. A cheap premium with a high service fee gets expensive if you have multiple failures in one year. 3. Who is actually doing the repair? A warranty is only as good as its contractor network. In rural areas and smaller towns, networks can be thin, which means longer wait times in the middle of winter or summer. Before you buy, ask: • Do you have licensed techs covering the Omaha area? • What is the guaranteed dispatch window? • Can I use my own contractor with prior approval if no one is available? 4. Add-ons that matter in our area Standard plans rarely cover well pumps, septic systems, second refrigerators in the garage, sump pumps, or roof leaks. If the home has any of those, you will need an add-on. Those extras add to the premium, so price the plan with add-ons included, not just the base price. 5. How to compare companies apples to apples Don't compare the marketing grids. Download the actual sample contract. Look at the same three pages for each provider: • The covered items list and exclusions • The limits and payout caps • The claim process and service fee Big names you will see are American Home Shield, Choice Home Warranty, and First American. They differ mainly on cap amounts, add-on options, and service fee structure. Check recent third-party reviews and your state's complaint history, not just testimonials on their site. Home warranties are often sold as service contracts, so you can also check with the state Attorney General's office for complaint patterns. Bottom line from an inspector's perspective A home warranty is not a replacement for maintenance or for budgeting for replacement. It can be useful for the first year after a purchase, especially when appliances are older but still functional at closing. For some homeowners, putting that same $40 to $80 per month into a dedicated home repair fund makes more financial sense. If you are buying soon, bring your warranty questions to the inspection. We can note the age and condition of the appliances so you know which coverage, if any, makes sense. Schedule an inspection with Acuity Property Inspections and get a clear picture of your appliances, systems, and what to watch for in year one.